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Lesson 3: Oils, Vinegars, & Other SeasoningsThis lesson will deal with some of the more common ways to introduce herbal and spice flavors through seasoning. We’ll learn to make infused oils and vinegars, salsas, relishes, chutneys, compound butters, compound cream cheeses, and salt mixtures.
OilsSeasoned oils are very versatile. They’re used not only in salad dressings, but also for sautéing, to add as a last minute sauce over fresh pasta or meat, as a marinade, and as a dip for hearty bread. But before we discuss how to make them, I want to add a word of caution. Unlike vinegar, which has an acidic environment that is hostile to bacteria, bacteria can grow happily in oil. The root-flavored oils, e.g. garlic, are particularly susceptible. Commercial garlic oil has some form of citric acid added to keep it safe; but the flavor is modified. So make flavored oils at home, but in small amounts. Keep them refrigerated and use them within the recommended times listed below. First, we need to choose the oil. When you don’t know what specific dish is going to be combined with the oil, choose a neutral flavored oil like canola oil. If I’m making the seasoned oil for a special dish, then I can use an extra virgin olive or walnut oil or whatever oil is compatible with the dish. For a basic salad dressing to keep in the refrigerator, I do use an extra virgin olive oil. You need a good one, but not necessarily an expensive one as you don’t want the olive flavor to drown out the herbal flavor.
To make oils with spices, start with the spice in a powdered form. Popular spices include mustard, chili pepper, curry, cumin, cinnamon, anise, or saffron. If you have time, sauté them in a little oil until you start to smell the aroma – add enough oil in the pan to make a paste, not a liquid. If you do not sauté them, make a paste by mixing a little water with the powdered spice in a 3:1 ratio – e.g. 3 teaspoons powder to 1-teaspoon water or oil. You will need a container with a good lid. I find that small canning jars are a good size and economical. They are airtight and you can continuously reuse them. Replace the lids every time, however, in order to address the food safety issues. You can buy replacement lids separately from the jars.
Put the paste into the small jar, add 1 cup of oil and shake well, (you can also use a blender). Let the jar sit out on the counter for a couple of days, then slowly pour the oil through a small filter or cheesecloth or coffee filter, leaving the spice in the bottom of the jar. Wash out the spices, and return the oil to the jar. This oil will hold nicely up to 6 months at room temperature. To make oils with root flavorings, e.g. shallots, garlic, horseradish, and ginger, grate or finely mince the root. Add the minced item directly to the jar in a ratio of one tablespoon of chopped root to 1 cup of oil. Shake and store the jar in the refrigerator; use within two weeks. With garlic, it is best to blanch the garlic cloves first, i.e. put them in rapidly boiling water for 15 seconds. This helps prevent spoilage. To make oils with fresh herbs, use one of two techniques. For annual or mild herbs like basil, parsley, mint, or cilantro, bring out their flavor by blanching them as described above and then dip them into ice water. Dry and chop roughly, and put them into a blender or the small bowl of a food processor. Add roughly the same amount of volume of oil as you have herbs and process to a smooth paste. Put the paste in a jar and add three times as much oil to the jar, again measured by volume. Shake the jar and let it sit out for one day. Filter as described above, and store in the refrigerator for up to one month. Making oils with heartier fresh herbs – the perennials like thyme, rosemary, or oregano – does not require blanching the herbs. Mince them finely, and combine 1 cup of minced herbs with 2 cups of oil. Shake, and let sit out for a morning or afternoon. Store, either strained or unstrained, in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. |
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